(Note- this entry is several weeks post-date… but watching Florida play in the NCAA reminded me of this un-posted material. Stream of consciousness rules the Universe!)

I’m currently on vacation with my family north of Jacksonville on Amelia Island, Florida.

It’s the sort of place where you jump into the local hot-tub and listen to visitors kvetch about the 3-million dollar ‘facelift’ that they just did on their kitchen.

On the positive side, the area is carpeted with old-growth live oaks and palmetto. It’s also the sort of place where you occasionally see leviathans like this guy (below) emerging from the surf. Fifteen feet long and about 600 pounds- he looks like he’s smiling, but the ocean-side of a barrier island is no place for an alligator. He’s wildly off-course, and probably deathly exhausted.

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I’ve spent loads of time paddle-boarding, swimming and kayaking in the surf here. Thus, I was tantalized when this image popped up on CNN this year.

The yellow arrow points at the front porch of my in-laws’ condo. The red line represents a set of GPS fixes from a 16-foot great white named ‘Mary Lee’ (a delicate little southern Belle of a shark apparently- who comes up with these names?***).

***actually- it’s named after a lead researcher’s mother… who probably possesses the adventurous soul and bold heart to make any Charcharadon charcharius proud


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I’m particularly delighted by this image- a close-in snapshot of miss Lee’s position at 12:46 AM, January 8 2013. 

The thing is- I know what those surf-breaks look like and feel like. That great thumping fish is wallowing about in four feet of water. That’s the zone where the tourists from Newark ride their rubber dinosaurs.  Tasty little cutlets!

(As we all know, great whites actually have little interest in eating people… even the porkiest of us lack the kind of blubber that piques their interest. Still… those are murky waters, where misidentifications would be all too easy).

Squirrel! (Err… Seal!)

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These images come from the enormously addictive Global Shark Tracker, a site that publicly monitors 35 great whites with active GPS tags. The map interface posts current locations (and past movement data).

As you can imagine, when a 16-foot shark flourishes its tag in a surf break right out the front porch of a metropolis with 870,000 people (Jacksonville), you get a rash of headlines like ‘"Great white shark enters Jacksonville Beach waters; Swimmers, surfers urged to stay out of the water until shark leaves."  The truth, of course, was drily articulated by a Jacksonville area fisherman named Jack Ashley-  "It's not the only great white that's swimming out there. It just happens to be one that we're tracking."


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So- alligators and sharks- oh my. I’ve had things bump my leg out in that surf… nothing that felt like ‘Bruce’… but it does make one think.

It also makes the experience immeasurably richer, in my opinion.

I need to spin out some great white designs for my pots. So far, my drafts have been a little too cartoonish (see below). I want something that evokes this Richard Ellis painting.


We need great whites to add delight to our ‘adventures’. Adventure is a stale thing without the mortal shadow, even if faint.

We need alligators too.

The last I heard, our friend from the beach was slated to ride the euthanasia express to some Everglades in the sky… but I hope the nice Park Service man punted on his duties and brought the gator to some shaded, tannin-flavored canal, brimming with coots and gar-fish- and maybe with a human toe or two to add zest to the experience.

 
 
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Ocher skies weep gray water.... while the temperature at night continue to dive into the low 20's. Not the optimal weather for working in the studio- any wet-work in clay would freeze and develop rabbit's fur. Not a good interval for moving my 'Last Chance to See/Kakapo' project forward. Instead, I'll continue with my musings on harbor seals. (Credit Kawika Chetron for the imagery
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_Anyhow, I was teaching my comparative vertebrate anatomy class today. Skulls and bones week! We've got a glorious Phoca vitulina (harbor seal) skull in the lab. Somehow, the whole class got sidetracked into marine mammal stories, leading, at one point, to a discussion of one of my favorite films, 'The Secret of Roan Inish'.

(Fair disclosure- the following is adapted from some commentary that I posted on Rotten Tomatoes a few years back. It's a busy week- sue me!)

I’m a notorious sucker for most things Irish. I play the music, love the culture and the landscape. There's really nothing in my heritage to explain it either. I'm Dutch-Croatian, and my parents musical palette was basically centered on gospel, classical music, Pete Seeger, and The Prairie Home Companion. The connection i primal, however.

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_ So- when I heard that John Sayles- one of my all time favorite directors- had crafted a children’s film about the Selkie legend (mythical creatures- seal-like, that can shed their skins and take human form) I felt like my head was about to explode.

You know how it feels to treasure an idea, place, or image in your soul, and then see it misfire in a film? Contrast that to the rare, transcendent joy of seeing a film actually get it right. 

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_ The story starts with Fiona, a young girl living Dublin. She's first introduced as a pale, wraith of a child, wandering like a ghost through sweatshops and smoky pubs. Her father is nursing deep wounds, and has little time for the girl, but a kind publican convinces him to send Fiona to the ‘old people’ out in the West.

Fiona’s grandparents live on some unnamed stretch of the Irish west coast- perhaps Donegal, although I’m not sure. For anyone who’s unfamiliar with the area, it’s a austere, uncompromising place, but still lovely, draped in rock and heather, transfixed by the boundless, stormy eye of the ocean.

For Fiona, landing with her grandparents is like a new birth. Her grandparents Hugh and Tess are gnarled and warm, suffused with local knowledge, and drenched in folklore.

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_ A large part of this film revolves around Hugh sitting by the fire and relating stories and legends about Fiona’s family. This sounds dull, but far from it. Sayles has a profound respect for local knowledge and the power of myth, and this movie is his celebration of these things.

Fiona learns- first from Hugh, and later from Tadgh, her brooding , complex cousin- that her family are refugees, former occupants of a remote island in the Pacific, Roan Inish. She also learns that her youngest brother, Jaime, was ‘lost’ during a flight from said Island. Given that this film is anchored in the Selkie mystique, you can probably guess where things are going.

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_ Mason Daring, a long time Sayles collaborator, is a master at crafting haunting, vibrant soundtracks that are socially and geographically grounded and integral to Sayles’ storytelling. I love the bittersweet Appalachian strains in Matewan and the earthy Zydeco in Passion Fish. I can make a more accurate assessment of the music in Roan Inish however, especially from a technical/authenticity standpoint. I play Irish music quasi-professionally, and listen to it voraciously.

Roan Inish has the best soundtrack of any Irish-themed film that I've encountered (only 'Waking Ned Devine' comes close). The tracks are beautifully played and arranged- Daring enlisted a core of respected players (such as Maire Breatnach ). I’m especially impressed by the authenticity and effectiveness of the original compositions. The music is utterly unpretentious and pure. To those who think that ‘Riverdance’ and its ilk are representative of Irish Music at its best, please go see this film.

_ Roan Inish: Two of my favorite scenes
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1) The evacuation
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The reason for Fiona’s family’s flight from Roan Inish is never fully articulated, but I assume it’s related to World War II. In any case, the family are depicted loaded their currachs (traditional Irish coastal fishing boats) while little Jamie sleeps near the water’s edge in his cradle- a strangely boat shaped rocker that traces its inception back to the family legend. The sky darkens, as a bodhran drum rattles in the background. The tide laps at the boat… and suddenly, Jamie is floating away through dark sheets of rain.

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_ 2) Lost in the mist

Fiona, exploring a currach by a jetty, suddenly finds herself holding a cut rope, drifting through fog, surrounded by seals. It becomes manifest that she’s being guided… but the intentions of the guides are unclear.

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_ Roan Inish: A few classic pieces of dialogue
“He’s not lost, he’s just off with another branch of the family”
(cousin Tadhg, referring to Jamie)

“Superstitious old man!”
(Tess, referring to Hugh’s stories about Selkies. She then banks the peat fire in the parlor, dedicating it to the blessed virgin, and to the seven bright angels that gather around the throne…)

"...and he woke to their faces above him, all women and girls. 'Is this Heaven then?' he asked..."
(Hugh- describing the reaction of a near-drowned sailor upon awaking)

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